It's been a whirlwind year so far, and we are only half way through the year! After finishing up as the makeup department head on season 3 of Only Murders in the Building, I packed my bags and headed first for New Hampshire (see previous post) then right to southern Italy.

My art residency, through Arquetopia had been planned for well over a year. I excitedly packed my favorite ruler, colored papers, and gouache for three weeks of art making among the lemon trees and pizzas. I was in for a surprise, as this was one of the most disappointing experiences i’ve ever had.

I arrived in Naples on a dreary rainy spring day to find out that the residency was quite far from Naples. After a taxi ride, that was over an hour, and expensive, I finally arrived at my home for the next few weeks.

I dropped my bags and got the tour. The little studio was across the courtyard past two gorgeous lemon trees. The studio was not quite what I was expecting. Low ceilings, bad lighting, small, and only a sink to turn an empty room into a “studio”. Again. I did not expect anything fancy for a studio, but a clean space at bare minimum. Each morning I would come in to find bits of dirt and bugs all over my works in progress. My studio mate however was absolutely amazing.

Next up was our promised large midday meal that Arquetopia staff was providing for us. To be in Italy and eat terribly is a crime. A plate of pasta, hastily made, for the first course, and some sort of meat with a “ side” of 3 halved cherry tomatoes and dried oregano and a second course. The food only worsened from here, one day being served a cut up hot dog with a side of oil drenched peppers. These meals were disappointing and unhealthy. I was not expecting a five star restaurant experience, but I did expect healthy, rustic and tasty meals. Instead we were served under cooked food for a toddler.

Aside from the food they prepared for us, groceries we promised, and included in the payment for the residency. When I arrived the refrigerator was nearly empty, save for some rotting greens and boxes of pasta. Grocery shopping was to happen once a week, this was a Monday and groceries didn’t arrive until Friday.

When it was time to crawl into my bed, much needed after an overnight flight, I found dirt on my comforter. I was promised the next day that it would be cleaned, it never was, and spent the first week in the damp cold suburbs of Bacoli freezing at night. There were heaters in every room but we were “not allowed” to use them.

Along with my comforter not being cleaned, not once were my sheets changed or towel changed, again, as promised and even outlined in the handbook.

I managed to work a bit in the studio, but found real joy when I left the residency property. However, to get anywhere is far and dangerous. The property itself is at the top of a long driveway and feels safe, but once on the road feels nerve wracking. The road, Via Cuma, is a two lane highway where people drive fast. There are not too many pedestrians, which is better for the ones who are as there is only a very narrow side walk on one side of the street.

The grocery store (which was very necessary!) was a good 10 minute walk away, the laundromat, 20 minutes. The train station to leave Bacoli is a mile and a half away, about a 45 minute walk! There is a bus, but good luck catching it as there is no real schedule. Once on the train its another 45 minutes to get to Naples. I felt that I was gaslight (in many ways) on where exactly the residency was. It’s FAR from everything and not in a “cute secluded cabin then the woods” kind of way.

The management of the staff is non existent and everyone, even the staff suffers from this. Myself and other residents had spoken up regarding the housekeeper smoking in the house and studio. She didn’t stop and only became more disruptive, playing loud television shows on her phone and entering rooms and the studio without knocking. I could go on, but I think you get my point.

The promises Arquetopia made were not held up. I sent an email after two weeks informing them of my early departure, and still have never received a reply. Arquetopia does not care about the artists. From mentioning my unhappiness at one of our meetings, and the subsequent letter, if they cared at all I would have gotten a reply.

Leaving the residency early was the best decision that I made. I was not comfortable staying there by myself after the two other residents left. The woman who cooks and cleans is mean spirited and if something was to really happen to me, there was no list of emergency numbers and the lovely manager was a 45 minute drive away at best.

So I packed my bags for an amazing day and night in Naples. First stop was dropping my bags off at hotel Il Tesoro Smart Suite & Spa. Then off to the Museo Cappella Sansevero. Not to be missed! If you go, get tickets ahead of time. Followed by a stroll and nap in the Botanical Gardens. I had to get my last Napoli Pizza and stopped by Pizzeria Capaso a Porta San Gennaro and had the best pizza and Peroni. Then back for a nap at the hotel. Later that evening was just a lazy walkabout and had a delicious red arancini and a glass of wine at a cafe. It was the best send off from Naples.

The next morning I caught my train to Rome. My hotel, Hotel Mondial Rome was also beautiful. I should mention that I hadn’t had a hot shower while at the residency so these showers were amazing. Rome is Rome, a beautiful incredible city that I am lucky enough to have been to 4 times. Went to all my favorite places, Rosciolis bakery, Fatamorgana Gelato and Filetti Di Baccala restaurant.

The absolute highlight of my entire trip was Nikki de Saint Phalles Taror Garden, located north of Rome at the edge of Tuscany. An easy train ride and a scheduled taxi took me and two new friends I made at the Capalbio station right to the Tarot Park. It was a dream come true, to interact with her larger than life sculptures based on the tarot. I can’t recommend this enough. Bonus are the views of the tuscan countryside.

I came back rejuvenated from my mini art vacation and have been working on projects non stop. I did make a few things while at Arquetopia so not all is lost. I channeled my frustration into a DESPONDENCY + SUPERSTITION deck of cards.

Cheers to everyone that makes lemonade out of lemons, especially in the land of lemon trees.

Note: If you know me, you know that I am a chronic optimist. This post is serving as a safe outlet to honestly review my disappointing experience at Arquetopia Italia. With a little travel blog thrown in for good measure.

Making Art in Southern Italy + the Disappointment at Arquetopia

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